the painted surface
How To Paint Over Striped Walls - page 2
Is the New Paint Compatible With the Striped Wall?
Acrylic and latex (water-based) type paints will not adhere to oil-based paints without a primer. Sometimes walls decorated with stripes the striping effect is created only with a difference in sheens. One is flat or eggshell and the alternate stripe is semi-gloss or gloss. This effect might have been created using a clear coating like varnish, shellac or polyurethane. An oil-based paint of the same color also might have been used. If you know the old paint is all acrylic or latex then any type of paint can be used. If you do not know a simple test should be done to determine compatibility. Moisten a rag with alcohol and rub a inconspicuous spot. If the old paint softens or dissolves onto the rag the paint is probably an acrylic or latex and can be painted over with most any paint without the use of a primer. If the old paint or finish does not dissolve a coat of acrylic bonding primer may be needed. Test compatibility of the new paint with the old by painting a small spot, allowing it to dry at least 24 hours to see if it will adhere.
If you are painting over an oil-base paint but want to use a water-base product then a primer is needed. An "acrylic bonding primer" can be applied over the oil-base paint to prepare it for the water-base paint.
There are water-base paints that some manufacturers say can be applied directly over oil-base paints. These are fairly new to the market and they are mentioned here to inform you of your options. If you choose to go this route make sure the paint is 100% acrylic, not latex, and is stated so on the product label. It will be best to test an area to make sure the new paint will adhere to the old.
Prime the Walls
If you are dealing with incompatible paints, the sanding has penetrated into the drywall or there are large or several patched areas of wall now is the time to use the appropriate primer. If priming over an oil-base paint be sure to use one for that purpose. You will have a choice of different types of primers such as oil-base, water-base and alcohol-base. The labels will state if they should be used as the intermediate coat between oil and water-base paints. Look for or ask your paint dealer for an “acrylic bonding primer” if you suspect there to be an adhesion problem between the old and new paints. If there is only some slight drywall damage from sanding a common drywall primer can be used. Some of the primers may require a light sanding to achieve the smoothest surface. A sanding sponge usually works well as the primers are formulated to be easily sanded.
If no primer is needed you can move to patching and priming damaged areas of the walls.
Patch the Walls
After the primer is dry you will see the condition of the walls and what kind of repair work is needed. Cracks should be taped, mudded, sanded and primed. Holes and dents will need to be repaired and any ridges not smoothed by the sanding can be skim coated with drywall compound. See “How To Patch a Hole” or “How To Patch a Crack” for more information.
Sand and Spot Prime
Allow the patch work to dry completely. Depending on the materials used this may take several minutes, hours or overnight. A fan circulating the air will usually speed up the drying times. Sand the patches and spot prime. Drywall primers/sealers do a good job of providing a good base for the finish coats of paint. If the topcoat of paint has any sheen a primer is required to prevent an uneven finish. At this stage the walls should look really good. They are now ready for the finish coats of paint.
Many of the paints on the market now state they are paint and primer in one. I think this mostly applies to the paint's ability to cover previous colors well and not always to seal and prepare damaged and patched areas for the top or finish coat. Usually dedicated primers used under finish paints will perform better than the all-in-one paints. However for small patched spots the finish paint can be used as primer, apply extra coats to seal the patched areas.
Paint the Walls
The remnants of the old stripes should be completely hidden now and the finish coats of paint can be applied. Two coats are recommended to completely hide the previous colors and to cover the difference of sheens if the old stripes were created by the use of two sheens or glosses of paint.
More helpful painting tips, techniques and how-to articles can be found by following these links:
Pantone 2016 Color of the Year ◊ Sherwin-Williams 2016 Color of the Year ◊ How To Paint a Room ◊ How To Paint a Stairway ◊ How To Paint a Two-Story Room ◊ How To Choose Colors ◊ Six Step Color Choice ◊ Popular Color Ideas ◊ How To Choose Paint ◊ Tools ◊ How To Caulk ◊ How To Patch a Hole ◊ How To Patch a Crack ◊ How To Cut In a Wall or Ceiling ◊ How To Roll a Wall or Ceiling ◊ How To Paint Woodwork ◊ How To Paint a Window ◊ How To Paint Baseboard ◊ How To Paint a Door ◊ How To Paint Crown Moulding ◊ How To Paint Kitchen Cabinets ◊ How To Choose a Premium Paintbrush ◊ How To Paint a MDF Bookcase ◊ How To Paint Aluminum or Vinyl Siding ◊ How To Paint Over Faux Finishes ◊ How To Use Magnetic Paint ◊ How To Use FrogTape ◊ How To Paint Repair Water Damaged Drywall ◊ Hiring a Contractor ◊ Paint Stripper Safety ◊ Painting Louvered Shutters ◊ 2013 Color Trends ◊ Choosing Front Door Colors
More details about specific painting subjects are covered in the additional articles. In those will be found details, painting tips and techniques gathered from over 20 years of painting experience. Here is a list of links to the articles: